Dublin With Kids

As with all of our itineraries, we recommend taking it at a pace that works for your family. If your kids are really little, maybe plan on sticking to the rule of three: One thing to see, one thing to do, and one exciting meal per day. We give a lot of information here but the last thing we want is to make a trip feel stressful or insurmountable.

Dublin sneaks up on you. You arrive expecting a pub city — lively, charming, slightly damp — and you find something richer: a compact, walkable capital where Georgian squares give way to river paths, where medieval churches stand at the end of perfectly ordinary streets, and where the person behind you in a coffee line will start a conversation before you've ordered.

The food scene has grown up considerably in the past decade and the city is walkable in a way that few European capitals are. With children, Dublin is easy. The parks are everywhere, the streets along the river are flat, and the Irish are, without exaggeration, among the friendliest people on earth toward kids.

This itinerary covers three days: the historic city centre and the Liberties on Day One, a DART train trip to the seaside village of Howth on Day Two, and Airfield Estate's working farm followed by Phoenix Park on Day Three. It is not a slow itinerary — but Dublin rewards movement, and we'd feel guilty not sharing every good thing we know.

FRIDAY | THE CITY CENTRE, THE LIBERTIES, AND A PINT YOU'VE EARNED

Start Friday at The Fumbally (~€10–15/person) — a large, light-filled community café and produce and natural wine market in Dublin 8 that has become one of the city's most genuinely loved morning spots - and an absolute must for our family every time we’re in Dublin. The space is full of light with high ceilings, communal tables, a relaxed pace, and staff who are warm and unfussy. The food is seriously good: scrambled eggs on sourdough with Gubbeen smoked cheese, excellent pastries and coffee, and the flourless chocolate pie is something we still think about. Grab a fun bottle of wine to enjoy once the kids go to bed tonight, and don’t skip the produce section, it’s fascinating. No reservations, and it moves quickly.

From there, set out for Trinity College and the Long Room (~€16/adult, ~€10/student, free under 4). The gates open onto one of the most beautiful university campuses in Europe. The Book of Kells Experience is the centrepiece: one of the world's most extraordinary illuminated manuscripts, made by Celtic monks around 800 AD, with an exhibition leading up to it that puts the whole thing in context. The Long Room itself is a wonder — a cathedral-length barrel-vaulted hall lined with 200,000 ancient books, marble busts, and the original 1916 Proclamation of Independence in a glass case at the far end. Note: as of 2025, the Long Room is undergoing conservation work; and most of the books are being restored so the Long Room is fairly empty. However the Book of Kells remains on display and a new, very cool exhibition has been created around it in a series of annexed storage container buildings (there are even talking statues). Check the Trinity website for current access before visiting. Buy tickets online in advance — same price as the door and time slots sell out quickly so make sure you’ve got your tickets in advance. Strollers are permitted throughout, however, kids might find this a little boring, there is a cobbled College square outside, perfect for getting wiggles out, or take turns there and the other parent can take the kids to St. Stevens Green.

A ten-minute walk south, St. Stephen's Green (free, open daily 7:30am–dusk) is a 27-acre Victorian park that has been open to the public since 1880. There is a large pond with ducks and swans, and a fully enclosed playground with benches. The paths are wide and on a sunny day the whole city seems to exhale here. When you're ready, walk 9 minutes to Devitt’s Pub on Camden Street. A traditional Irish Pub with exceptional food and service, lunch is the time to take your kids. They have chicken goujons (chicken strips) and fries with a curry sauce and an excellent salmon chowder. It might be worth a quick google ahead of time to see if any big Irish sporting events are being broadcasted as it will be packed if that’s the case. Otherwise it’s mellow and great during the day.

Take a taxi north to Glasnevin Cemetery and Museum (grounds free, tours from €10, open daily 10am–5pm). This may sound like an unlikely afternoon with children — a Victorian cemetery covering 124 acres, the resting place of 1.5 million people — and yet it is one of the most extraordinary places in Dublin. The grounds are beautiful: Celtic crosses and yew trees and rolling green grass, with the 180-foot O'Connell Round Tower rising from the centre. You can wander for free, or take the daily guided Irish History Tour. There is a secret gate in the wall that connects the cemetery to the National Botanical Gardens next door — walk straight through, and the Gardens are free. Afterwards, step around the corner to the Gravediggers pub — officially John Kavanagh's — for what many consider the finest pint of Guinness in the city. Book guided tours online in advance, especially on weekends.

The Guinness Storehouse (~€26/adult, ~€10/ages 5–17, free under 4) will make you a fan of Guinness even if you think you aren't. Seven floors built around a pint-glass-shaped atrium take you through the entire story of the stout — interactive exhibits, decades of advertising, and the Gravity Bar on the seventh floor with 360-degree panoramic views of Dublin and your complimentary pint. For kids, they have soft drinks and an audio tour with labelled lookout points (and here's where your phone with pre-downloaded games for them to play so you can enjoy your pint in peace comes in handy). Budget two to three hours. Book tickets online in advance — often cheaper and you skip the lines. Aim to reach the Gravity Bar before 2pm for the clearest views.

Dinner is at Las Tapas de Lola (~€25–45/person, open daily from 5pm) on Wexford Street — an Irish-Spanish co-owned tapas restaurant that has been one of Dublin's most loved dinner spots since 2013. The format is ideal for kids: lots of small dishes arriving continuously, nothing precious or fussy, and a lively room where a chatty child is an addition to the atmosphere rather than an inconvenience. Order the chicken croquettes, the garlic-fried chicken on the bone, the pan con tomate and the patatas bravas. Actually, order more than you think you need and watch your children get swept up in the energy so much that they are willing to try new food. Book ahead, especially on Friday nights.

Nightcap at Fallon's — The Capstan Bar (~€6–20/person) has been a pub on The Coombe since 1619 — not a typo — which makes it one of the oldest continuously operating licensed premises in Ireland. We have stayed at the Hyatt Liberties at least four times mostly because of its proximity to Fumbally and this pub. The interior is exactly what you'd want: dark wood, worn floors, warm lighting, and the kind of atmosphere that feels lived-in and actually patronized by locals. It is voted among the very best pints of Guinness in Dublin, and the main bartender has a very entertaining obsession with American whisky. Children are welcome in the earlier evening. Sit near the window with a view toward St. Patrick's Cathedral. Or if you're staying nearby and can go post-bedtime — try to grab a spot at the bar. The conversation is great on slower evenings.

SATURDAY | HOWTH BY THE SEA, FISH SHOP, AND THE COBBLESTONE

Take the DART (~€5 return, free under 5, 25 minutes) from Connolly or Tara Street station to Howth — the right way to do this day. Quick, scenic, effortless with a pram, and an adventure in itself for toddlers who find trains thrilling. Buy a Leap Visitor Card at the airport or any station; it works on the DART, Dublin Bus, and the Luas. The train hugs the coastline north from the city, with views of Dublin Bay widening as you go. Howth is the end of the line — you cannot miss your stop.

From the station, walk directly to Howth Harbour and the East Pier (free). Most importantly, find the seals: they bob and lounge between the docked fishing boats with no concern for onlookers, and all people — young and old — are genuinely delighted by this. The East Pier is a long stone walkway stretching out to the lighthouse — flat and stroller-accessible, about fifteen minutes each way, with views back to Dublin on a clear day that are amazing. The Howth weekend market runs along the harbour on Saturdays and Sundays from 10am to 5pm — local crafts, artisan foods, hot snacks, ice cream, and the pleasant bustle of a seaside village. Allow an hour for the pier as your kids will want to stay and watch the seals. There is a little playground near the Starbucks (wink, wink) and a small sandy beach at the base of the East Pier is good for shell-collecting and crab-spotting in the rock pools.

For lunch, head to The Oar House (~€14–32/person). Tucked along the West Pier in a restored old fishing cottage, it’s one of the best spots in Howth for fresh Irish seafood without feeling overly formal. The atmosphere is relaxed and welcoming, with families (and a dedicated kid’s menu of fish, salmon, chicken strips and spaghetti), hikers, and locals all squeezing in over bowls of chowder and plates of fish and chips after a day by the water. The menu changes with the day’s catch, but the local favorites are the Dublin Bay prawns, seafood chowder, crab claws, and perfectly crisp fish and chips. If the weather’s nice, try to grab a seat outside near the harbor — watching the fishing boats come and go is part of the experience. Catch the DART back to Dublin by 3:30pm.

Ten minutes' walk from the station, The Cobblestone (77 North King Street, Smithfield, free, traditional music sessions Monday–Friday from 5pm, Saturday–Sunday from 2:30pm) is Ireland's most famous traditional music pub — a family-run Smithfield institution that nearly became Dublin's most famous planning fight in 2021 when a developer proposed demolishing most of it for a hotel. Dublin turned out in the hundreds to stop them and the pub won. The front bar is exactly what you'd want: worn wood, no frills, and spontaneous music sessions every single night — fiddles, flutes, uilleann pipes, bodháns — played by some of the finest traditional musicians in the country, always free, always unrehearsed. Kids are fine in the early evening - maybe give yourself 30 minutes for this, nearby there is a small playground on the promenade by HayMarket Square if the kids gets too restless but the music is captivating and our girls watched in awe. The Cobblestone does not serve food.

From the Cobblestone, head to the Black Sheep Pub (~€10–28/person) for dinner. If the kids are restless after your Cobblestone Stop, there is St. Michan’s Park (a block and a half off your route from Cobblestone to Black Sheep) with fun play equipment in a circular formation. Let the kids play there for a bit then continue on to one of Dublin’s best gastropubs for families who want something a little more elevated without feeling stuffy. Tucked along Capel Street, it’s known for excellent Irish craft beer and surprisingly great food — think hearty steak sandwiches, fish and chips, burgers, and one of the better kids’ menus you’ll find in the city center. The atmosphere is lively but relaxed, with enough space that bringing kids never feels out of place. If the weather’s nice, grab a table outside and soak up the energy of one of Dublin’s coolest streets.

Another option for dinner (and we know, we know, you most likely had fish and chips for lunch), but this place is great, so even if you don’t want to do it today, please consider going to Fish Shop (~€18–28/person) on Benburb Street. It’s one of the best fish and chips in Dublin — a tiny, focused spot run by husband and wife Peter and Jumoke Hogan, who serve a daily-changing menu of locally caught, beer-battered fish alongside an exceptional wine list of over 30 bottles, all available by the glass. The room has 16 barstools and a stripped-back aesthetic that feels entirely unlike a typical chipper. The batter is light and crisp, the chips are excellent, and the tartare sauce is house-made. Book ahead — it fills up fast. If you can't get a table, takeaway is available and the canal nearby is a perfectly good place to eat it.

SUNDAY | A WORKING FARM AND FREE-ROAMING DEER

Start Sunday at Airfield Estate (~€15/adult, ~€6.50/child 3–17, free under 3, open Tuesday–Sunday 9:30am–5:30pm) in Dundrum — Dublin's only urban working farm. 38 acres of gardens, farm animals, heritage buildings, and outdoor play areas, twenty minutes from the city centre by Tram.. There are Jersey cows being milked each morning, donkeys and sheep in the farmyard, egg-collecting sessions, donkey talks, woodland walks, and play areas scattered through the grounds. The daily schedule includes a 10am egg talk, 10:30am jersey herd milking, and afternoon storytime — all included with admission. The Overends Kitchen café serves excellent food using produce from the farm. The estate covers the story of Letitia and Naomi Overend — two sisters who farmed this land into the 1990s and left it in trust to the Irish people, which explains the careful, purposeful quality of the whole place. Take the Luas Tram Green Line to Balally — turn right out of the station, walk up the hill, five minutes to the entrance. Vastly easier than parking. Most families spend three to four hours here.

After Airfield, take a taxi or the Luas toward the city and stop at Phoenix Park (free, open daily dawn to dusk) — one of the largest walled city parks in Europe at 1,750 acres, and the best free afternoon in Dublin. There is a herd of several hundred fallow deer roaming freely through the park, and encountering them up close is one of those travel moments you remember for years. Head toward the Fifteen Acres (the large open meadow in the western section) and wait. The deer tend to gather here in the late afternoon. The excitement you all feel when one walks within touching distance is worth the entire trip. Dublin Zoo is inside the park as well — open daily 9:30am to 6pm — though if you're doing Airfield in the morning, the zoo is ambitious for one day.

The weekend ends at Wrights Anglers Rest (~€18–32/person) on the western edge of Phoenix Park, right on the banks of the River Liffey. A gastropub with genuine family appeal and a setting that exists nowhere else in Dublin — the terrace hangs over the river, the menu is solid Irish gastropub cooking (the fish pie, the lamb shank, the fish and chips), and the whole atmosphere has the quality of somewhere that knows what it is and does it well. Children are welcomed, and the kitchen stays open late enough that a long afternoon in the park doesn't require rushing.

WHERE TO STAY

These Dublin hotels actually accommodate a family of four. The south city centre — around St. Stephen's Green and Grafton Street — is the right area to be: you can walk to Trinity, the Green, and most of this itinerary's restaurants from any of these addresses. The one exception is the Hyatt, which trades central location for proximity to the Liberties, and cannot easily sleep 4 to a room. We are including it because we’ve slept here multiple times in a single room - They include a chaise lounge and bring you extra bedding, a crib is available upon request, and our girls end up in our King Bed at home most nights so we just started with one in our bed and one on the chaise last time. The location is so great, we’d be remiss not to include it.

The Green Hotel (~€180–320/night) was newly refurbished in 2024 and sits directly across the street from St. Stephen's Green, a short walk from Grafton Street — as well-placed as a Dublin hotel gets for this itinerary. Twin rooms sleep families of four comfortably, the breakfast is properly good, and the location means Saturday morning begins the moment you step outside. They also provide a Dyson Hair Wrap in the room, which we loved. The Bistro on the Green does a strong breakfast spread and the cocktail bar next door (Pen & Player) is excellent for an evening nightcap once the toddler is down. A little trick for booking here: Book a room for 2 adults one child and then ask for an extra cot. Or the Junior Suite provides a pull out sofa double bed.

Hyatt Centric The Liberties (~€160–300/night) is the best-positioned hotel for Day One's Liberties itinerary: a 15 minute walk from the Guinness Storehouse, directly across the street from St. Patrick's Cathedral, adjacent to Fallons Capstan, and around the corner from Fumbally. Family rooms sleep two adults and one child in a king plus sleeper sofa configuration; complimentary cribs for smaller children. They have limited underground parking as well, but you won’t need a car in Dublin.

Maldron Hotel Kevin Street (~€140–260/night) is one of the best-value family hotel options in the Liberties, with an almost identical location to the Hyatt Centric: directly beside St. Patrick’s Cathedral, a short walk to the Guinness Storehouse, and steps from neighborhood favorites like Fallons Capstan and Fumbally. Rooms are simple and modern rather than luxe, but they’re thoughtfully set up for families, including larger rooms with two double beds that sleep up to four and interconnecting options for bigger groups. There’s secure underground parking with EV chargers available if you’re road tripping Ireland, though like most central Dublin stays, you’ll be happiest exploring on foot.

The Mespil Hotel (~€140–260/night) is a modern, welcoming hotel overlooking the Grand Canal where children under twelve stay free and family rooms sleep four comfortably. Fifteen minutes' walk from St. Stephen's Green, well connected by bus. The best value option on this list that doesn't compromise on comfort or location.

A FEW THINGS TO KNOW

The Fumbally is closed Mondays. Kitchen closes at 4pm Saturdays, 3pm Sundays. No reservations. Walk from the Luas Red Line or take a taxi to Fumbally Lane.

Trinity College tickets are cheaper online and guarantee your time slot. Children under 4 are free. Check trinitycollege.ie for current Long Room conservation status before visiting.

St. Stephen's Green playground is enclosed and fully visible from the benches — Duck pond is ten minutes from the Grafton Street gate.

Glasnevin Cemetery grounds are free to walk; tours and museum from €10. Guided tours daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm. Bus 4, 9, 40, 83 or 140 from O'Connell Street.

Fallon's — The Capstan Bar is at 129 The Coombe, a 15-minute walk from the Guinness Storehouse. Open daily from noon.

Guinness Storehouse open daily 9am–7pm, last entry 6:45pm. Adults from €26, under-4s free, family tickets from €62. Book online. Nearest Luas: James's stop, 7-minute walk.

Las Tapas de Lola is at 12 Wexford Street. Open daily from 5pm; Saturday and Sunday lunch from 12:30pm. Book ahead at weekends — it fills up.

The DART runs from Connolly or Tara Street stations. Howth is the end of the northern line (25 min). A Leap Visitor Card covers the DART, Dublin Bus, and Luas. Children under 5 travel free.

Fish Shop is at 76 Benburb Street, Smithfield. Closed Tuesdays. Only 16 seats — book at fish-shop.ie. Takeaway available without reservation.

The Cobblestone is at 77 North King Street, one minute from the Smithfield Luas stop. No food. No reservations. Sessions Monday–Friday from 5pm, Saturday–Sunday from 2:30pm. Free. Arrive early for a seat near the musicians.

Airfield Estate is at Overend Way, Dundrum. Open Tuesday–Sunday 9:30am–5:30pm. Under-3s free. Luas Green Line to Balally, five-minute walk. Pre-book online.

Phoenix Park deer are most reliably found in the Fifteen Acres in the western section. Late afternoon gives the best chance of a close encounter. No entry fee.

Howth seals are in the harbour most mornings and evenings — best viewing when fishing boats come in or out. East Pier walk is flat and fully pram-accessible.

The weather: it will probably rain. It is usually the soft, misty kind — a waterproof jacket and a rain cover for your stroller and you're done. The light after rain in Dublin is extraordinary.

Getting around: walk the city centre; use the Luas for cross-city trips; taxi for everything else. The Luas Red and Green lines cover most of this itinerary. Dublin parking is expensive and the streets are narrow. Do not drive unless you have to.

The Gravediggers (John Kavanagh's pub) is adjacent to Glasnevin Cemetery at 1 Prospect Square — widely considered one of the best pints of Guinness in Dublin. Open daily from noon.

Pub Culture: Irish law dictates that children under 18 cannot enter pubs after 9 pm, but Pubs have individual authority to make that time earlier. It’s best to start checking around 6pm if children are still permitted before you make the trip to one.

Power Outlets: Ireland, Scotland and The UK all use UK outlets which are different from the EU outlets. You’ll need to bring an adapter or Boots Pharmacies sell them for cheap once you arrive.

Brexit: Because Brexit made England leave the Schengen area and Northern Ireland is technically part of the United Kingdom, the rest of Ireland is now separate from the Schengen as well, meaning you will have to do passport control if you’re traveling on to the European Union. Plan your timeline to include customs - although the Dublin airport has a dedicated family lane through both customs and security.

Tipping: 10–12.5% at sit-down restaurants is appropriate. Many restaurants add a discretionary service charge to your bill, which you're allowed to remove. Pubs — no tipping expected when ordering at the bar. Rounding up at cafés is fine, or nothing at all.

Cleaning up after your children is always appreciated everywhere.

IF YOU HAVE MORE TIME: BEYOND THE CITY

Malahide Castle and Gardens (~40 minutes north by car or DART + bus) is an 800-year-old castle surrounded by 260 acres of parkland, with a fairy trail specifically designed for small children — fairy doors in the trees, hidden sculptures, small installations that children discover with the focus of someone who believes, genuinely, that something magical might happen. The Avoca Café inside the grounds is excellent for lunch. Works well as a standalone half-day, or on the way in from Dublin Airport.

Dún Laoghaire Pier Walk and Teddy's (free, 25 minutes south by DART): take the DART south to Dún Laoghaire and walk the Victorian pier to the lighthouse — flat, stroller-friendly, twenty minutes each way, sea views in every direction. The reward at the end is Teddy's Ice Cream, which has been scooping cones on this pier since 1950. Get the 99 — a soft-serve cone with a Flake bar pressed into it, the Irish national ice cream — and walk back slowly. This is the version of the trip where you remember why you travel.

If you need a breakfast answer on any morning this itinerary doesn't have one accounted for: Bread 41 (41 Pearse Street, open daily from 7am) is Dublin's most talked-about bakery — outstanding laminated pastries, exceptional coffee, and lines that move quickly. Opens at 7am and sells out of croissants by mid-morning on weekends. And Bewley's Café(78–79 Grafton Street, open daily from 8am) has been caffeinating Dubliners since 1840 — an ornate Victorian interior with Harry Clarke stained-glass windows, high ceilings, and a downstairs bakery where you can watch cinnamon buns being pulled from the oven. Order the full Irish breakfast. Crayons and paper arrive for the kids automatically.